Tamarugal and Pan de Azucar

Parque Nacional Pan de Azucar, Chile.

I prefer, if possible, to camp at established campgrounds, and I quickly had great luck in Chile, including two national parks/reserves. South of Iquique, right along Ruta 5, I stayed two nights at a campgound in Reserva Nacional Pampa de Tamarugal, and then north of Chanaral, I stayed one night in Parque National Pan de Azucar. Both were great.

R.N. Pamp de Tamarugal, in the desert of northern Chile, is basically a plantation established to preserve one species of tree, the almost bush-like tamarugal tree. This species of tree is well-adapted to desert life, life in the Atacama region, but was almost wiped out during the nitrate era in this part of Chile. This small reserve helps protect a large grove of trees, planted, but still, very nice. The campground was great, each campsite almost felt like a cattle or goat pen (they do allow some grazing by both species in the reserve), but with a light and electricity, a picnic table, and your very own tamarugal tree. Plus, the bathrooms were great, hot water, and clean, with separate sinks for washing clothes, and sheets, which I did. I stayed there two nights, hiked a bit, and bike all over the place. Was always nice to stay someplace, more than one night, much more relaxed. I had neighbors both nights, including an older couple with a serious overlander rig, thing a tank, swear I read about them somewhere. Think they were Dutch, but they spoke basically no English, so never really chatted. Then, the second night, a small van, obviously modified as a camper pulled in, with Chilean plates. But, to my surprise, and delight, the van contained a couple of Americans, Josh and Tess from Salida, Colorado. We chatted, enjoyed a beer together, do enjoy meeting folks from the USA, as there are few which I have run into during my travels. Josh is a rafting guide, guides out of Pucon, Chile during the southern summer, then they return to Colorado do guide during the northern summer. Enjoyed our chat, interesting folks. 

​Further south, quite a bit south of Antofagasta (and after my visit to San Pedro de Atacama, see next post), and just north of Chanaral, camped in Parque Nacional Pan de Azucar. I would have loved to have had more time here in this rugged, beautiful, and surprising biologically rich park. The park stretches 40 km along the coast north of Chanaral, just spectactular coastal scenery. Although this area is still basically desert, there is much biological diversity; there are approximately 20 different species of cacti in the park. But unfortunately, the legacy of Peru continued to haunt me, so I was only able to stay one night. And while the road into the park was brutal, it was definitely worth a visit, even if for only one night. I camped in the first campground I got to, facilities nothing special, but sites right along the rocky coast, and less than 100 m from a sandy beach. The water was a bit chilly, and currents I guess can be dangerous, but I went for a swim anyway. I parked my van along the shelter which exists at each site, backwards, and left one door open all night. I went to sleep looking out at the ocean, the crashing waves on the rocks, and a large island not far off the coast, sounds of the ocean all night. I slept great. I was not alone in this campside, there were two guys from Argentina on motocycles, seriously loaded, and a wonderful Dutch couple in a rented RV. It was a very pleasant place to spend a night, warm showers, campsites right on the ocean, quiet, serene, just beautiful. I just wish I could have had more time to explore.

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