The Baja, Baja California and Baja California Sur, is truly an amazing place. I drove a total of 4,506 km (~2,800 miles) in the Baja, from Mexicali in the north, south to Baja de los Angeles, across to the Pacific coast, then on to Bahia Concepcion, and eventually into Cabo San Lucas at what is the tip of the peninsula. And then, I drove back up north, back to Mexicali and out of the Baja. I drove and camped, hiked, biked, paddled, explored, and photographed much of what the Baja has to offer, and I thoroughly enjoyed all of it. So, get there, visit the Baja, and be sure to spend as much time on the peninsula as possible, from the Gulfo de California, across to the Pacific, from the US border all the way to Cabo, there is a lot to see, and do. I highly recommend a visit to the Baja, you will not be disappointed. After you leave a place, especially one like the Baja, it is time to reflect, think about the adventure just completed. There is the van to clean, and a pile of images and videos to sort though, plus, the time to finish with these last few blog posts. So, what did I learn? What advice might I give to someone who is interested in exploring the Baja? There are tons of travel blogs and web pages out there, with tons of specific information on the Baja, where to go, what to do, camping and hotels, etc. Instead, I though I would ramble a bit, offer some advice which you might not find in the guide books and travel blogs, or at least some of it. So you want to go to the Baja?
I could go on of course, but this is about all I have to offer at this point. I had a great trip, a wonderful trip, and I do hope to get back there, still places I did not get to visit, and places I want to see again. Plus, the tacos are great.
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I explored most of the Baja, and there were definitely places which I really enjoyed, for one reason or another. And the last two locations which make my 'Best of the Baja' list are La Ventana and Cabo Pulmo, both on the East Cape, along the coast between La Paz and San Jose del Cabo. La Ventana and Cabo Pulmo are very different places, known for very different activities, but I really enjoyed my time visiting both. La Vantana is all about kite surfing and kiteboarding, and is one of the most popular spots for these crazy activities in all the Baja. These watersports are not my thing, would probably kill myself; I was in La Ventana for the mountain biking. There are two areas with amazing trail networks around La Ventana, and while I only explored one area (just south of town), it was great. There is a great app called Trailforks, and all the trails around La Ventana are listed, this app is wonderful. Trailforks lists La Ventana as having 73 trails with a total distance of just over 130 km. The trails north of town are more challenging, more intermediate and expert trails, and definitely more climbing. The trails just south of town are much easier to get to, an easy ride from town, then jump on Cardon Corridor, and you have access to many kms of trails, all pretty easy, mostly flat, and lined with cacti, including many giant cardon cacti. It was fantastic riding, fast, curvy, and just beautiful, though beware of soft sand along the edges of the single-track. If you get into this stuff, you might find yourself careening into the vegetation which line the trails, vegetation made up mostly of cacti, plants just covered with spines. This would hurt, a lot. I stayed out of the cacti. This was the best riding I enjoyed in all the Baja, just great. Further down the East Cape, along the coast, is Cabo Pulmo, and then Los Frailes. Cabo Pulmo is all about what happens under the water, not on the water (or on the sand) like at La Ventana. Here, almost right on the Tropic of Cancer, is some of the best diving and snorkeling in the Baja, and supports the only true coral reef associated with the peninsula. I camped at Playa los Arbolitos, mellow place with bucket-flush toilets, luke-warm showers and a small restaurant. But the place is right on the beach, though the parking/camping area runs away from the beach. And, you can snorkel right off the beach, which by the way, is great. It was a bit challenging when I was there, windy, and with waves, so it was tough snorkeling, but it was still great. Bring a wetsuit if you plan to spend any time in the water, it was pretty chilly when I was there. There is another cove further down the coast, which I heard was more protected, so it might be worth a try if it is windy like it was when I was there. Cabo Pulmo is part of a national marine park, Parque Nacional Cabo Pulmo, which contains one of the oldest of only three coral reefs along the west coast of North America. The site is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well. I was in the water as much as I could be, given the water temperatures, and the waves and tides. Definitely wear a PFD, as it is not only required (park rules), but it makes it easier to handle the waves, even if it means you cannot dive down to explore. Two nights here was definitely not enough. I spent more time traveling along the east coast of the Baja, along the Gulfo de California, than I did along the Pacific coast, especially since I started my adventure at Mexicali and then south to San Felipe. And from San Felipe, I traveled south along Rt. 5 sur (south), just a brutal road at times, but this decision quickly got me to Bahia de los Angeles, which I really liked. And from there, I did have to head across the peninsula to Guerrero Negro along the Pacific, before heading back east to Santa Rosalia, down to Mulege, before arriving at the beaches along the Bahia Concepcion. One of my most favorite places of the whole trip was El Requeson along the Bahia Concepcion, wonderful little place, just beautiful. Bahia de los Angeles was great, wonderful little town, quiet, but there was a nice market, a few restaurants, fuel, all that you really need. I stayed at Daggett's Beach Camping for a few nights, hot showers, quiet, and amazing views from the camping area. I biked and paddled my SUP (only one day, was really windy the rest of the time), and generally enjoyed my time, so relaxing, so beautiful. If you are into fishing, you definitely have to visit, and a couple of tourists also staying at Daggatt's really did well, including 4 monster groupers (40 lbs +, each). I did hear that Playa la Gringa, further up the road north of town was really cool, even if there are really no facilities. Maybe next time. After you head south of Santa Rosalia, you get to Mulege, a very cool little town, oasis of sorts, with a river and small lake nestled among palm trees not far from the coast. And just south of town, the road begins to run mostly right along the coast, and the Bahia Concepcion, and there are many opportunities to camp along this stretch of the Baja (12 to be exact, at least according to my guide book). I stayed one night at Playa Santispac, nothing special, before heading down to El Requeson, one of the last camping areas along the Bahia. I stayed there two nights, and while it was often windy, I loved it there. I camped (err parked) at the end of a spit of sand, which at low tide, connected us to a small island which was fun to explore, and which offered fantastic views of the Bahia Concepcion, and the many islands which dot the landscape. When the wind didn't blow, there was great paddling, and you could bike along dirt tracks for more than a few kilometers heading south, and even north along the coast just below the road. While the water was still cold, the beach and water were very clean, the island was fun to explore, and the views were wonderful. Plus, I met some cool people during my time at El Requeson, including a vendor who visited every day selling blankets, jewelry, etc., and who plied me with beers until I succumbed and bought a blanket. Oh well. I have now been back in the USA for a few weeks, time to unpack, clean my van, work on images, and time to reflect. The Baja is wonderful, a special place as I suggested in an earlier post. You do need to visit, and explore the peninsula if you get a chance. So, if you are able to visit, where would you go? Since I got back, many have asked me, ".... so where was your favorite place?" Well, that is always a difficult question to answer, as like other places I have visited, the Baja has so much to offer, so much to see, and do, it is nearly impossible to pick out one, or a few of the best, there are just so many wonderful places. But, I going to try anyway. So here goes, my favorite places, the best of the Baja (at least for me) and, a few places which I had to miss, but you should not. I really like San Felipe, for a number of reasons, including the fact that outside of Cabo, where I got stuck, I spent more nights in San Felipe than anywhere else. But there is more to it than that. The town is nice, small malacon, bars, restaurants, shops, fuel, and a number of campgrounds, so everything you would need. Campo Uno, where I stayed, was great, wonderful people, ok facilities (had hot water showers my last two nights there), and the Gulfo de California right there. So if you hop across the border at Mexicali, or coming from the east in general, head south along the east coast of the Baja on Rt. 5 and stop in San Felipe, get oriented to a different culture, and language, and prepare for the Baja adventure that awaits. And maybe by the time you get there they would have fixed the Rt. 5 Sur. Nope, not likely. While I was stranded in Cabo San Lucas waiting for repairs on my van to be completed, I tried to keep busy, and have some fun. So one evening, I set up to shoot a time-lapse sequence of a busy part of what is really downtown Cabo, or at least the part of the city where the action is, bars, clubs, restaurants, and tons of tourists, very near the marina. The time-lapse was shot from an elevated platform at La Vaquita ("the little cow"), one of many clubs in Cabo, 1/2 a block up from the marina, near the intersection of Lazaro Cardenas, Blvd. Paseo de la Marina, and Ignacio Zaragota. I shot at 1 second intervals for about 3 hours, starting a little after 5:00 pm local time. I had hoped to really capture the insanity that is Cabo, but while things do get busy after dark, I think things really don't get crazy until much later, when Cabo goes loco, especially when you add Spring breakers to the mix. The sequence is a bit long, longer than I would like, but I am still working on my video editing skills. The Baja is an amazing place, filled with wonderful beaches, majestic mountains, awesome deserts, just incredible landscapes. The Baja is also filled with amazing biodiversity, in part because of the high degree of endemism, and this diversity is yet another reason why the Baja worth visiting. And if you include the Gulfo de California (Sea of Cortez), with its amazing biodiversity, the Baja region is one of the most biologically rich regions of the world. I was especially impressed by the diversity of cacti, and succulents in general. I do love the desert, the climate is harsh and unforgiving, the plants and animals are especially well adapted to such brutal reality, and evolution continues to add to the amazing number of species able to adapt to the desert habitat and all that comes with life in such a harsh environment. There are generally considered to be four major desert areas in the Baja, including the San Felipe desert, the Central Coastal desert, the Vizcaina desert, and the Magdalena Plain desert, running from north to the south. I really enjoyed driving though these desert landscapes, and I wish I new more about the botany of the Baja, but I tried to capture some of the diversity of the Baja, especially in terms of cacti, with my camera. I also wish I knew more about the diversity and taxonomy of members of the Family Cactaceae, and the almost 130 taxa (or more) in the Baja, some of which are endemic, found on the Baja and nowhere else in the world, such as the boojum tree. I have included photographs of the few of the most common species of cacti (and others) which I saw during my travels throughout the Baja. I have included photos of some yet to be identified cacti as well, just because I liked the photos. If you know the taxonomy of any of the species shown in photographs without a legend, please let me know. I will continue to sift through my images and pull out (and hopefully identify) other examples of plants on the Baja, just amazing plant diversity, just amazing botany. Help with the plants, mostly cacti, which I was able to identify, provided by a wonderful web page, and research project, The Flora of Baja California, thenat, San Diego Natural History Museum. There are piles of information available on their web page, a searchable database, maps, photos, and more. Check it out, got to love a good herbarium, and all that comes with an amazing plant collection. After finally getting my van back, fixed (hopefully), and after a making a quick stop at Cabo Pulmo, I felt it was time, time to head north, make a run for the border. I needed to get back, and cross the border before the idiots in charge of the USA did something really stupid, like close the border. Plus, I really wanted to spend some time at Joshua Tree National Park in southern California before heading east. The trip north, mostly along Mex 1, would be pretty uneventful, mostly lots of driving, though the boulders and cacti of Catavina were very cool. I was sad that I did not have more time, as there were a few places which I had hoped to visit but I just ran out of time. I was not ready to leave the Baja, such a wonderful place for an adventure. I left Cabo Pulmo, bounced back to Mex 1 (again, part of the road to Cabo Pulmo was pretty crappy, so I did literally "bounce"), blew past Los Barriles (one of the many places I wish that I had time to visit), and headed back to La Paz. I camped at Campestre Marantha west of downtown La Paz, very well-kept place, very clean, including the bathrooms, with great showers, some shade, and a pretty good deal at $300 pesos per night. Plus, I ran into Kirk from Colorado again, for the fourth time. It is just amazing how you seem to run into some of the same people, even when nothing was planned, all just travelers in the Baja. Kirk's trip to the Baja was just a shake-down cruise, as he was planning a grand adventure, one which would take him to areas I explored in 2016-2017, including Peru, Chile and Argentina. Check out his blog when you get a chance, not much there now, but expect much more as his South American adventure begins (www.impactoverland.com). The next day was a long one, for both of us, me and my van, traveling northwest on Mex 1 from La Paz, though Cuidad Constitucion, then east across the mountains back to the Gulfo de California, before heading north along the coast to Loreto, fighting a brutal wind much of the way. I stayed at the Rivera del Mar Trailer RV Park in Loreto, nice, even if pretty cramped, with nice bathrooms (with hot showers), working Wifi, and within an easy walk to the malecon and the water, and downtown. Loreto is a great little city, lots of shops, restaurants, and the Mision Neustra Senora de Loreto adjacent to a small square right in the center of town. Next, it was back on Mex 1, up the coast, along the Bahia Concepcion, past Mulege and Santa Rosalia, before climbing back up the mountains from the coast heading west towards the Pacific. I stopped in San Ignacio for the night, Rice and Beans Oasis, where I ran into some acquaintances, another Canadian couple I met at Playa Santipac along the Bahia Concepcion weeks ago. They were also starting the trip back north, though they were pulling a big Airstream trailer, oh, can't imagine how tough that must be, especially climbing mountains and fighting the wind. There are other places to camp (at least one), closer to the small village that is San Ignacio, with a small square and the Mision San Ignacio, a few shops and restaurants, but they looked deserted and not really well-maintained, so I opted for Rice and Beans, with a bar/restaurant, small swimming pool, and hot showers. There is actually another Rice and Beans Restaurant in San Felipe, the original one, but after eating here, at Rice and Beans in San Ignacio, I would not be interested in checking out the original Rice and Beans, had the worst tacos of my trip. From San Ignacio, it was another long, windy day, through Vizcaino (which I drove through before, looks like a nice, small city), Guerro Negro, and back into Baja California. I continued north on Mex 1, past the turn-off for Bahia de los Angeles, the turn-off for Rt. 5 (which eventually wanders into San Felipe, the way I came south initially), and all the way to Catavina, with amazing boulders and cacti, including the cirio or boojum trees, endemic to the Baja. Catavina was cool, I really had fun scrambling among the boulders and numerous cacti, taking a ton of pictures, exploring for hours. I camped at Rancho Santa Inez with a group of Canadians (yes, the Baja is full of Canadians) in their RVs who also drove up from San Ignacio. I even ate at the little restaurant there (and I mean little, two picnic tables, open air, and maybe four item on the menu), fish tacos and a beer, $100 pesos (or just over $5US), good, worth it compared to cooking myself, too tired for that. At this point, heading north on Mex 1 the next day, things changed significantly the closer I got to Ensenada. There was much more development from San Quintin north along the Pacific cost to Ensenada, more people, more traffic, more trash, just more development. I did not enjoy this stretch of road in the Baja. I somehow missed the turn-off for Erendira just north of San Vicente where I had planned to stop, maybe distracted by the only real scenery along the route, a superbloom of wildflowers in progress, coating the hillsides along a couple of less-developed stretches of Mex 1. I also had to endure an almost hour delay for road construction, but was able to pass the time sharing a beer with locals parked in front of me. I stopped south of Ensenada to camp, at Villarino RV Park and Beach Camping out on Punta Banda west of Maneadero, nothing special, though they do have a small store which is part of the campground, plus nice bathrooms. And finally, I woke early, chatted with my neighbors, two Canadian couples traveling south in their VW vans, headed for Ensenada, a big city with big city traffic (and potholes!), before heading back over the mountains, east towards the Sea of Cortez yet again. I had to deal with four, yes four military check-points east of Ensenada (though did not have to actually stop at the last one), totally annoying, before getting back to San Felipe and Campo Uno, where I really started my Baja adventure. My Baja adventure was almost over. I was already missing the Baja, but it was time. I would stay at Campo Uno for three nights, enjoy some time on the water (thanks for taking us fishing Billy), eat some more tacos, drink some more beer and too much tequila, and get my van organized for the border crossing and a return to the US. I also met another interesting guy, Yuri, a Czech, who had paddling a small sea kayak all the way down the Colorado River from the Hoover Dam in the US, to Campo Uno, amazing, and even a bit crazy. He also has a blog, which is also not really up-to-date since his time on the Pacific Crest Trail in 2018, but check it out if you get a chance anyway, he has some nice photographs (deckhanddiary.wordpress.com). After three nights in San Felipe, I headed north on Rt. 5, retracing my route to and through Mexicali to the border crossing, just east of the city center. It took 1.5 hours to cross, including lots of time just standing around, but I made it, made it back into the US after an amazing adventure in the Baja. It was a great trip, even with the unexpected and extended stay in Cabo San Lucas. The scenery is often spectacular, the people are great (including all the Canadians), and the food is marvelous. And while I have never lived in the desert, I love the desert landscapes, with so many species of unique plants, especially cacti, there is lots to see, and photograph. And while the roads can be challenging, and it is windy down there, the Baja is a special place, a beautiful peninsula flanked on one side by the Pacific Ocean, and on the other side the Gulfo de California. This is a place you need to visit if you get a chance, you will not be disappointed. Viva Baja! After finally getting my van back after too much time in Cabo San Lucas, I left town, and headed north to another Cabo, Cabo Pulmo. This place along the east Cape is a national park, and a great snorkeling, and diving destination. Cabo Pulmo has one of the few coral reefs on the western coast of the Americas, and while the water can be rough if it is windy, this place is definitely worth a visit. I camped south of the town of Cabo Pulmo, at Playa Los Arrolitos, a very low key camping area. They have bucket flush toilets, showers (which can be almost warm late in the afternoon), a small restaurant, and a beautiful beach, all for only $60 pesos per night. This is not a place for big rigs, or anyone pulling a trailer, as the parking/camping area has some areas with soft sand and it is easy to get into trouble, as I almost did. But if you can handle the road to Cabo Pulmo and Playa Los Arrolitos (which is bad at some points, washboard, soft sand, and even a rock or two), this is a great place to chill. I snorkeled right off the beach adjacent to where I camped in my van, and while the water could be rough, and you have to watch the tides, it was fun. I saw lots of fish, though not as much coral as I had hoped to see. The beach was great, but there is also a mostly rocky shoreline (shorelines which are always beautiful), and a trail along the bluffs, just great. I stayed two nights, and loved it, wonderful place to visit, snorkel, hike, and even just catch rays on the beach. Get to the other Cabo if you can, even a day trip is possible, just don't miss it. Oh and by the way, I really loved trying to photograph the crabs, beautiful little animals. While stuck in Cabo, without my van, I was "forced" to eat out every night, and that meant, Tacos! I love tacos, really love almost anything in a tortilla, corn or flour, though I have yet to eat a flour tortilla in the Baja. So, pretty much every night while in Cabo, I would head out into the evening in search of the best tacos, fish or otherwise, in Cabo. Now understand, to really accomplish this goal, to find the best tacos in Cabo, would take, oh, maybe two to three, months, there are that many taquerias, and restaurants with tacos on the menu (which is uh, every restaurant in Cabo, and the Baja in general) in Cabo. I had eight nights, so my search would be a short one, but nonetheless, I would work hard. I had tacos seven nights (took a break for some ceviche, which I also love), and the best, were not even fish tacos, something for which the Baja is known. The best tacos were from Las Guacamayas, which has two locations, one away from the center of insanity along the marina in Cabo, eight blocks or so from the Cabo Inn where I was staying, and one in the busy part of Cabo along the marina, etc. I loved the tacos at Taqueria Las Guacamayas, the whole experience was great. When I look for a place to eat in the Baja, and especially in Cabo, I look for a local place, with plastic, usually red table cloth, white plastic tables, and plastic chairs, often with a beer logo on the back of the chair. I also look for a place with locals, a few gringos are ok, but if a place is dominated by tourists, I look elsewhere. Las Guacamayas had no tourists the night I visited, the service was great, as was the ambiance, and of course, the tacos were the best I had. The restaurant is an open-air place, though there are tables in the back. The meal starts with bean soup, which was great, and then they bring out the accompaniments, and condiments. This included two plates/platters, with red sauce (potentially very dangerous), green sauce (more my style, but caution still required), sometimes another red sauce (often chipotles), fresh salsa, and the most wonderful of all, creamed avocado, which they call guacamole. Las Guacamayas also included a platter with flame roasted onions and jalapenos, plus lime wedges and cucumbers. I usually stick to a few drops of red sauce, a little green sauce, maybe a bit of grilled onion, salsa, topped with the creamed avocado, messy, but wonderful. I had two tacos, one chorizo, and one bistec (steak), as they had no fish, or shrimp that day, with corn tortillas, as always. And I washed it down with a Pacifico, or two, con limon, ice cold. It was all fantastic, the beer, soup, tacos, service, the best tacos in Cabo, all for $124 pesos. If you are in Cabo, check out Las Guacamayas, you will not be disappointed. I am not sure what to say about life in Cabo, after being essentially stranded here for 8 days now. There is actually a lot to do, it just all costs lots of money, at least it seems like a lot of money for someone who has been exploring the Baja in a van. There are boat rides of every sort, dinner cruises, booze cruises, cruises on pirate ships, or just a water taxi ride out to Playa La Amor like I did. There are a million shops, a million bars, and a million restaurants and taquerias. Two-for-one drink deals are everywhere (it is actually time for spring break for college students now), and the main drag along the marina, busy place, loud, just nuts. I have been offered to buy lots of stuff, blankets, jewelry, Cuban cigars, hats of all sorts, and drugs. I have eaten lots of tacos, and drank more than a couple of Pacificos. I don't think I will be back here any time soon, but, between the Cabo Inn, the beach, and the best tacos in the world (outside of Mexico City as I have been told), I have basically enjoyed my stay. Time to move on, but I will leave you would a few images of Cabo. I wish I could include the sounds of Cabo as well, is a very loud place. |
AuthorBrian C.L. Shelley, Ph.D. Archives
May 2019
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