Although it was not planned, I ended up spending over two months in Peru, and most of that time was spent trapped in greater Lima, first in Miraflores, then in La Punta. And again, while I do not hate all Peruvians, and I made many good friends during my time there, I cannot look back foundly on my experiences in Peru. Looking back, what will I remember about my time in Peru, both the good, the bad, and sometimes, just the interesting? 1. Peru loves tourism, loves our money, but they do not really like us. I rarely felt welcome in Peru, whether in the cities, or even out in small towns along the PamAmerican or those bordering Titicaca. I also did not always feel safe, traveling alone, with my van. 2. Corruption is pretty pervasive, especially in the port city of Callao. Many Peruvians even told me that I should just try and pay off officials, and others in Callao, only way to get my van and gear. 3. There is a lot of poverty in Peru; 10% of the 10 million people in greater Lima do not have access to clean water or a sewage system. 4. Even with the amount of poverty you see, Peruvians are a proud people, proud of their heritage, their history, and proud to be Peruvian. They are generally an athletic people, well-dressed, and respectful, especially of their elders. 5. Peruvians love dogs, they are everywhere, including many street dogs, especially in places like Callao, and in rural areas. I bet there are at least two stray dogs for every dog which clearly has an owner. And of course, with all these dogs, there is a lot, and I mean a lot, of dog scat, stuff is everywhere. Disgusting. 6. They love speed bumps in Peru, in and around Lima, they are everywhere, and sometimes, they are huge. I even ran into speed bumps along the PanAmerican Highway. 7. Anyone of authority wears a uniform, they all have whistles, and use them often, often for no apparent reason. 8. Peruvians love their horns, buses, taxi cabs, everyone, they drive around and honk their horns at everyone, at everything. It is so annoying, oh so annoying. 9. I could not wait to get out of Lima, sounds of dogs barking, horns honking, and car alarms, constant, every second of every day, all night long. 10. They are not good drivers, and in Lima, they are maniacs, just crazy. I drove little in Lima, and even that, my early morning escape, white-knuckle much of the way until I was well south of town. 11. Food is good, even excellent, when you can find it, and/or afford it. Peruvians are very proud of their food, especially in Lima, and it is good, very good. I was told that two of the top 50 restaurants in the world are in Lima, definitely good food, but, can be expensive, and to some extent, the overall food culture might be a bit overrated. 12. There is very little to no recycling, and trash is everywhere, despite the efforts of many neighborhoods to have people out there picking up trash, all day. I was so sad one day, up high in the altiplano, came across a group of vicunas right along the road, but when I stopped to get a picture, could not do so without a bunch of plastic bags and trash in every picture I would have taken. So, I did not take any photographs. 13. I don't think it ever rains in Lima, or most of Peru in general, outside of the Peruvian Amazon. I spent over two months in Peru, and I experienced rain one time, the evening I arrived to Aguas Calientes, near Machu Picchu. That was it. It is dry, virtually all desert, just sucks the moisture out of you.
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Brian C.L. Shelley, Ph.D.My South American Adventure. Archives
August 2018
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