Finally, early in the morning on the 17th of September, 2016, after just over two months in Lima (first Miraflores, then lovely La Punta), I was on the road, heading South, Patagonia was only, like 2,000 miles away or so, was not exactly sure at that point. I was just relieved to be finally on the road, even if I was leaving my US$800 fridge behind. Had to happen, had to leave, every day I stayed in La Punta cost me at least $50, if not more, had to go, had to finally hit the road. I got up early, made my way from La Punta across town, and onto the PanAmerican Sur, and into the desert. Van was just as happy as I was to be on the road, ready to travel and log some miles. I was finally leaving Lima behind, hopefully never to return. I headed south through huge dunes, nothing but sand and rock and hills, a theme which would repeat itself for days and days, and days. I initially headed for Paracas, a town, and national reserve, a desert peninsula sticking out into the Pacific. I could not wait to sleep in my van, out there, somewhere, overlooking something cool. I had planned this trip for years, planned for me, and my van, traveling, exploring, wandering, seeing what we can see, sleeping wherever we can along the way. Our first stop would be Paracas. The town itself, very cool, great beach, many shops and restaurants, all about tourism here, especially trips to Isla Ballestas. Isla Balletas is a chunk of rock off the Paracas Peninsula, home to many birds, including Humboldt penguins, and plenty of sea lions. Unfortunately, I had no time, or money, for the boat ride out to the island, so I only stopped in town to look around, pick up some supplies, and grab a beer at one of the many bars along the beach, place was packed, not the bar, but the beach. Was quickly on my way to Reserva National de Paracas where I planned to camp (well, sleep in my van, which some might not consider camping, but I do, and can't beat my 6 inch memory foam mattress, beats sleeping on the ground any day). Paid S/.20 to enter the park, and into the dunes, rocks and coastal desert we went. It was beautiful, though midday light did not lend itself to amazing photographs, was still a very different, and interesting place. And again, I would not have enough time to spend here, a theme which will recur over and over again. The delay in Lima was costly. It was very windy, a very dry, sandy coastal desert, but beautiful in its own right. I found a parking area, brand new (they were actually still working on it), with stairs to the beach; a couple of rangers said ok to park/camp for the night. Hung out, as day-trippers left, the sun faded, drank a beer, or two, and very much enjoyed finally being on the road. My trip, my adventure had finally begun. As soon as the sun disappeared behing the dunes, I was in bed, and quickly asleep. I slept well. Up early, but no coffee, real bummer, my stove did not fit the gas canister I bought; issues with stoves, another recurring theme. Headed out, stopped for a quick ride on my bike, needed to do something active. Riding on the sand was great, place so wind-blown, sand actually not as much sand as rock, like pavement, hard, and great for riding. Rode for about an hour, some climbing, got hot quickly, time to keep moving. Loaded up, and unfortunately, after a very short visit, had to say goodbye to Paracas, quickly back on the the PanAmerican, heading south.
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Brian C.L. Shelley, Ph.D.My South American Adventure. Archives
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