Cusco, and the Lost City

Machu Picchu village.

 It was now time for the reason so many people, from around the world visit Peru, it was now time for my trip to Cusco and the Lost City, Machu Picchu.

My trip started with a short flight on StarPeru from Puerto Maldonado in the jungle up into the Andes and the the city of Cusco, the ancient capital of the Incas (I think), and the tourist capital of the Sacred Valley, which includes Machu Picchu. There is lots to say about Cusco, bottom line, I liked Cusco, oh so many tourists, and vendors selling what looks like all the same stuff, probably all made in the "Inca" factory in China, but who cares. I liked Cusco regardless of what is really going on there, really enjoyed my few nights there. The city is an ancient city, but modern in some ways as well. Cusco sits at 11,500 feet (3,500 m) elevation and for some, this is a challenge. So, trust me, take it easy, drink lots of water, and chew coca leaves like it is your job. I spent two nights there before heading to Machu Picchu, to both acclimate to the altitude, and to chill, drink a few beers, eat some alpaca and enjoy being out of Lima and the insanity of customs, my broker, etc. I liked Cusco, though my first night accomodations were less than even I expect for US$25 per night, so moved, Inti Wasi Hotel, bit more expensive, but located between the Plaza de Armas (there is one in every city and town in Peru), and another, smaller plaze, definitely a happening place. There is obviously much history to be experienced, absorbed, Inca and Spanish, amazing cathedrals, couple of interesting museums (Museo Inka and Museo de Arte Precolumino to name two I visited), narrow hilly streets, bars, resaurants, and those ever-present vendors selling lots of Inca crap. I had fun. After two nights, it was then time to head to Machu Picchu.

Most take a train from Cusco (or really Poroy station outside of town) up to Aguas Calientes, otherwise known as the town of Machu Picchu, the jumping off point for the bus ride, or hike, up to Machu Picchu, but I made my arrangements so last-minute, I took a bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo instead, where I would then catch a train the rest of the way to Aguas Calientes. Bus, much cheaper, and not one of those huge Greyhound things, this was a small bus, probably would seat 20 people max, very enjoyable ride one afternoon up to Ollantaytambo.

Ollantaytambo is a small village in the Sacred Valley, with some history, and ruins, of its own. Many stop here, even spend the night on the way to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, I wish I had the time, an afternoon was it for me. I very much enjoyed my afternoon there, there are ruins to see, less impressive than what Machu Picchu has to offer, but with like, 99% fewer people. I hiked up to an Inca food storage facility overlooking town, did not make it to the fort (long story, but some general had the hots for the daughter of the Inca ruler of the time, they had a disagreement, and fortress was build, and defended, and to be honest, not really sure what happened, expect the fortress exists today). And while waiting for my train, wandered around, up alley streets, had a beer, or two, and my first alpaca, in burger form, great. Then early evening, boarded my train for the ride to Aguas Calientes, too bad it was getting dark, and was dark for most of the ride, not much to see. Got into town around 9:30 pm local time, it was raining, this only significant because this was the only time I experienced rain in Peru, and later in Chile, for well over two months. Wandered to my hotel, pretty unimpressive, but again, what do you expect for US$25, and beside, I was just sleeping there, planned to get up very early to catch a bus to Machu Picchu. Off to bed. 

Up just after 5:00 am local time, quick shower, pack, and off to wait in line for a bus, buses start heading up the mountain at 6:00 am. Thank heavens there are smart vendors who get up early as well, able to buy a cup, or two, of hot coffee while waiting in line for a bus. Pretty much all guide services get their clients up early and in line, get up there early before the crowds. My turn finally came, boarded a bus after about a 40 minute wait, and up the mountain we went. 

This is not a history blog, not my job, you can look it up. Obviously, Machu Picchu is an interesting place, first "discovered" by Hiram Bingham from Yale in 1911, Inca city high in the Andes. There is still uncertainty as to why the city existed, but, whatever, pretty impressive no matter that the purpose. For me, was all about the views, the impressive position of this small city on top of a mountain, so steep on two sides that I swear if you stepped wrong, you would plung at least 500 to 1000 feet before you hit something. The views are amazing. The Inca civilization did some cool things, some crazy things as well, they were not necessarily nice people. I enjoyed my time wandering around, and photographing Machu Picchu, but must say, place just gets crazy, and this really affected how I perception of the place. They allow 2,500 people per day to visit, and I swear, by 11:00 am on the day I visited, there were close to 2,000 people, place was just nuts. Was it worth it to visit, yes, should this place be on your bucket list, I am not sure. The views are impressive, the history is very interesting, at least to those who are interested in that sort of thing. But, I am more about natural history, not cultural, human history, and while I am glad I visited, I feel that Machu Picchu, is, well, a bit over-rated. It was an interesting place to visit, I simply feel there are other places on this Earth of more interest to me, places without the imprint and impact of man. This is just me. 

I left the Lost City before noon for the hike down, only bought bus ticket for the ride up, thought I would enjoy the hike down. Hiked down, many stairs, and surprising warm and humid. Got down with enough time to wander around Aguas Calientes a bit, grab a bite, before bording the train for the ride back to Cusco. Aguas Calientes actually pretty cool place, all about Machu Picche, hotels, hostels, shops, bars and restaurantes, all tucked into a narrow valley along very nice river, Rio Urbamba, many riffles and rapids, small falls, high-gradient, my kind of stream. Then around 3:30 pm or so, headed to the train station to catch my ride back to Cusco, or really Poroy station, just west of town. Boarded my train, PeruRail, nice car, seat to my self across the table from a couple of ladies from Peru, not very friendly, but whatever. Very much enjoyed the train ride, though expensive, paid more for my train ride to Poroy than I did for my plane ticket back to Lima from Cusco. Enjoyed the ride, great fun, beer, food, beautiful views as we wandered down the river valley back to Cusco, and, entertainment. They had local dancers, and a fashion show. I enjoyed the ride. I might think in-and-of-itself Machu Picchu is a bit overrated. But if you include a visit to Ollantaytambo, time in Aguas Calientes and Cusco, and the train ride back to Cusco, together, a worth-while experience.

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